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Best Practices: Improving Dyschromia
Hyperpigmentation | Melasma
Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
When an aesthetic professional does not achieve the desired results that the client expected, the aesthetic professional will try to use a different peel, or use a stronger peel, or apply more coats, or leave the peel on longer or give peels more frequently.
It is not just about the "peel".
When it comes to improving the appearance of all pigmentation conditions, it is mandatory to have the client begin using skin lightening products prior to having a series of peels and to continue using the products thru out the entire series of peels. That is how one achieves the best results.
Indicated for :
All Fitzpatrick Skin Types
Mandatory for Fitzpatrick Skin Types III -VI
Pre conditioning the skin:
Prior to performing a series of chemical peels to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, PIH, and melasma, it is important to have the client begin using a topical skin brightener/lightener;
Fitzpatrick I -III: a minimum of 2 weeks prior to beginning peels.
Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV, V, VI: 3 to 4 week prior to beginning peels.
Reason:
PIH, Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation is the most common complication in clients with darker skin types.
With Hydroquinone products, it will decrease the skin's ability to create melanin, thereby reducing the post-peel complication/occurrence of PIH( post inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
Protocol: Brightening Serum or Brightening Skin Pads every AM
Brightening Serum HQ every PM
Wear sunblock. Strict sun avoidance.
Avoid heat and friction to the skin.
No cleansing brushes, harsh scrubs.
Acne | PIH (Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation):
Salicylic Acid Peel 20%,30% or 40%; every 2 weeks, for 4-6 treatment
Photo-aging |Hyperpigmentation | Sun spots from Sun Exposure
Jessner or Modified Jessner | minimal photo-aging | every month, for 4-6 treatments
Jessner Plus | moderate photo-aging | every month, for 4-6 treatments
TCA & Jessner | moderate to advanced photo-aging | every 4-6 weeks, for 6 treatments
Melasma | Epidermal Only
Jessner- every month, for 6 treatments
Jessner Plus- every month, for 6 treatments
Post Peel: After the skin has healed post peel( no visible flaking or peeling of skin), the client can resume using:
Skin Brightener( Non HQ) or Brightening Skin Pads every Am
Skin Brightener HQ every PM
Daily Sunblock. Strict sun avoidance.
No heat or friction.
Mineral makeup or camouflage makeup
Clinical Notes:
Majority of physicians prescribe hydroquinone for temporary basis or short term when a client is having a series of chemical peels and/or other resurfacing treatments.
Hydroquinone is not used continuously for maintenance for years. However, there are physicians who cycle with HQ( on 4 months, off 4 months); and/or prescribe topical low-dose steroid with HQ. Why low-dose steroid? Steroids help control inflammation(possible irritation | remember irritation equals pigmentation) from long term use of HQ.
High heat energy devices( Laser, IPL) are generally not the best choice for melasma due to re-bound of this condition( pigment coming back darker).