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Why L-Ascorbic Acid should not be used in peel pads
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L-Ascorbic Acid is one of the most touted ingredients used in skincare products. However, when formulating with L-ascorbic acid, one must keep in mind that this ingredient is very light, air, unstable and heat sensitive.
You may find L-ascorbic acid in a cream, or lotion or even in a mask. Take a look at the packaging and you will generally find that the product is in a jar with a lid. Every time that lid is removed and fingers scoop out the product, the L-ascorbic acid begins to degrade rapidly & loses its potency. So in effect, quickly, that L-ascorbic acid cream or product becomes ineffective.
Customers ask us if we formulate peel pads with L-ascorbic acid. We do not because:
- every time the jar is opened, air & light enters the jar( and it does) the L-ascorbic acid will quickly degrade. The L-ascorbic acid molecule is relatively unstable – on exposure to light, it is oxidized, changes color to yellow, and its antioxidative capabilities are reduced .
- Furthermore, the absorption of pure vitamin C through skin is relatively poor.
- From a formulating and manufacturing stability & potency stand point, there are L-Ascorbic Acid products that have been formulated several weeks or months before reaching the retailer, salon, or spa.
- And it may be several more weeks or months before purchased by the customer.
- In order to provide a Vitamin C product that is effective and does not degrade with air or light, & retains its potency, we formulate with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid retains the benefits of vitamin C, such as antioxidant activity. Furthermore, it is even more potent in reducing skin darkening after UV exposure. It even has some additional effects, not observed in pure ascorbic acid, such as promoting nerve cell growth or reducing chemotherapy damage. Finally, the slower release also ensures that no toxic effects are observed when using this vitamin C derivative.
Key benefits of Ethyl ascorbic acid in skin care:
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